Ireland has gained a brand new Michelin star for Dede in Baltimore, where Ahmet Dede, who previously held a star at the now-closed Mews, brings a Turkish sensibility to modern food based on the very best local produce from the West Cork larder.
This means the world to me, said Dede, clearly emotional as he spoke to the host of the virtual awards ceremony for the Michelin Guide Great Britain and Ireland 2021, Davina McCall, from Turkey.
No Irish restaurants lost their Michelin stars even though Derry and Sally Anne Clarke of LEcrivain had asked Michelin not to include their restaurant in this years guide as they have to vacate the building by the end of March.
The couple had hoped to re-open to say goodbye to their many loyal customers but this looks unlikely, with hospitality set to be closed for some time.
Aniar in Galway, which was closed for the whole of 2020 bar a couple of days at the start of the year, retained its star a relief for chef and restaurateur JP McMahon.
Michelin awarded three of its new Green stars recognising a commitment to sustainable gastronomy to three restaurants in the west of Ireland: Inis Meain Restaurant & Suites in the Aran Islands, Kai in Galways West End, and Loam in Galway City.
Ireland also gained four new Bibs Gourmand, recognising good food at affordable prices. These are Goldie in Cork City, Table Forty One in Gorey, Spitalfields in Dublin city centre, and Volpe Nera in Blackrock, Co Dublin. Several restaurants including Clanbrassil House and Circa in Dublin, and Two Cooks in Kildare, alongside others which have closed permanently, did not retain their Bibs. This does not necessarily mean a drop in standards, and may be down to pricing.
Ross Lewis of Chapter One, Dublin, for whom Ahmet Dede worked in the early days of his career, received the Chef Mentor award, an accolade welcomed by chefs in Ireland. Speaking from his home in Dublin, he too looked as if he might have something in his eye as he thanked the guide for what he described as a huge honour.
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Ross Lewis, of Chapter One restaurant, Dublin, winner of the Chef Mentor award. Photo: Gerry Mooney
Ross Lewis, of Chapter One restaurant, Dublin, winner of the Chef Mentor award. Photo: Gerry Mooney
Clare Smyth from Northern Ireland gained a third star for her London restaurant Core, as did Helene Darroze at the Connaught, owned by Paddy McKillen.
Ahmet Dede achieved his star despite eschewing the multi-course tasting menu usually associated with Michelin starred restaurants and opting for a less formal dinner with fewer but larger courses, some cooked in a wood-burning oven, as well as making the most of the restaurants outdoor space to serve everything from eggs menemen for breakfast to kebabs from the barbecue for lunch.
He also operated a deli shop and offered a takeaway service.
For me Michelin is the only guide in the world, he said. Michelin is not just about stars; it brings amazing restaurants and chefs together, and is pushing chefs to do better and better each year; we look forward to it each year and for me it is very important.”
Over the past year he took on the challenges without being difficult about it, said Ahmets business partner Maria Archer. This year the star was not part of our business model. It was more about survival… We are delighted, surprised, honoured, grateful and moved if it was up to me I would give him more than three stars, I would give him five!
Dede is currently spending time with his family in Turkey but will be back in Ireland next month and, after quarantining, getting ready to open Dede for takeaway in March and for indoor dining whenever that is permitted.
At House at the Cliff House Hotel in Ardmore, Ian Doyle, who took up the position only last spring, retained the star previously held by Martijn Kajuiter.
The inspectors decided I hadnt messed things up too badly, Doyle said. He is thought to have his sights set on a second star in the not too distant future.
For the first time in its history, the Michelin Guide has gone digital and there will be no printed guide this year.
Some had questioned whether there was any point publishing a guide this year, when pubs and restaurants have been closed for so many months.
The answer is simple, said a Michelin spokesperson, we want to promote the industry as much as we possibly can. We want to celebrate the many amazing restaurants in Great Britain and Ireland and all the hugely talented chefs and restaurateurs.
While restaurants remain closed for the foreseeable future, several of Irelands Michelin starred restaurants are currently offering the chance to enjoy a restaurant experience at home.
Aimsir in Kildare, where Cornish-born chef Jordan Bailey holds two stars, has an Aimsir at Home box. The kit, is available for delivery in Kildare and Dublin.
At Liath in Blackrock, Damien Grey will soon be launching interactive kits that are part-cookery lesson, part-dinner party. Last week he was looking for people to help test the kits and give feedback there was no shortage of volunteers.
Online Editors